What? Oh, yup, that's wind. I'm in an army tent on the beach, training my daughter Reece how to drive jet skis. She's three and a half. It looks a little George of the Jungle—when the little monkey drives by in the truck. You shake your head and say, "What?!"

You've gone out and ridden those big monsters a bunch of times, and all of a sudden it's like, Now what is it about? You have to rethink: What really is it for you? Because if that was it, then it's gonna be a long day. But, you know, it's always going to be about the big monsters, too.

I'm trying to tell the story to the people that don't know surfing. That's really been my challenge and my goal: to be an ambassador. Surfers are guys who just go surfing every day. Me, I'm gonna ride a bike, lift weights, paddle, hike. I'm going in the water as soon as we hang up.